1990 Toyota Camry 2.0 I Need to Gear Positions in Timing Belt Procedure UPDATED

1990 Toyota Camry 2.0 I Need to Gear Positions in Timing Belt Procedure

Timing belts last 60,000 to 100,000 miles. check your possessor'south manual for the manufacturer's replacement interval.

Your six-year-old econobox is starting to show a bit of wear and tear, but everything mechanical notwithstanding works fine. Until information technology doesn't. Specifically, the engine suddenly goes expressionless silent one fine solar day. Your mechanic says your timing belt failed, and so he chuckles into his shirt pocket. At present he gets to charge you for the tow, the belt replacement and a valve job, because there's no compression on two cylinders. You're one of the unfortunates with an "interference engine" -- an engine that can leave one or more than valves however propped open far enough to contact a piston when the belt parts. Sadly, sales brochures don't list whether an engine might endure catastrophic impairment if the belt goes.

You lot probably could have avoided this particular bit of unpleasantness with timely maintenance. It'southward best to replace the timing belt according to your carmaker's recommended schedule. For the record, many engines -- like those in more than expensive models -- yet utilize timing chains, rather than belts, like they did back in the day before the popularity of overhead camshafts. Unlike belts, timing chains usually don't have a routine replacement interval.

The timing belt (or chain) is the sole component that keeps the camshaft (make that camshafts on a DOHC or Five-blazon OHC engine) and crankshaft in sync. So replacing this cogged reinforced-rubber belt at regular intervals -- generally every sixty,000 miles unless the car manufacturer specifies longer -- is a lot less expensive and aggravating than having it break first. For your car's maintenance schedule, consult the possessor's manual, alldata.com, or the belt manufacturer's poster hanging on the wall at your favorite parts store.

Slow just Steady

Though you'll spend just a few minutes replacing the timing chugalug itself, it tin take an hour or more to dig down through the spaghetti of hoses, wiring and covers found in a modern engine bay. We even had to disconnect and cap a pair of fuel lines when we did the task on this VW ii.0-liter Four.

Written report the process before earthworks in, either in a service transmission or on the Web. On most transverse four-cylinder engines, you'll take to remove the passenger-side motor mount in order to gain access to the timing belt. This means the unabridged powertrain needs to exist supported in that expanse while you're working. And finally, getting to the lower portion of multipiece timing belt covers usually requires underbody access. A fender cover doesn't hurt either, to protect the paint from your chugalug buckle and dropped tools.

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(one) Remove any shrouding in the bicycle well then you lot can admission the crankshaft snout and the lower timing belt pulley.

(2a) Find the timing marks on the flywheel and cam, and set them both to TDC.

(2b) The flywheel pulley TDC mark is accessible through a pigsty in the bellhousing.

(2c) The camshaft TDC is easy to notice -- especially if you add white paint every bit nosotros did.

Time and Time Again

We cannot stress this plenty: Be careful! Make sure you know where the timing marks are on your engine, and that you have them gear up properly with No. i cylinder at acme dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke before attempting to replace the timing belt.

Why? ane) That interference engine thing once again; and 2) Every camshaft and crankshaft on planet Earth is indexed to No. 1 TDC. If yous try to remove and supplant the timing belt with the engine in any other position, chances are good you lot'll throw things out of time. So you'll become confused and accept to pull off the valve cover every bit yous try to determine when No. 1's valves are closed (which begins the pinch stroke) in gild to re-index the engine. Go your marks lined up right the start time.

After you remove the top section of the timing belt comprehend, you should see a timing marking on the camshaft sprocket -- this marking unremarkably lines upwardly with the edge of the cylinder caput or valve cover. For the crankshaft beneath, in that location probably will be a timing mark on the damper pulley that lines upwardly with another mark on the lower cover. Or, the service manual may direct y'all to the transmission end of the engine to look through a hole in the bellhousing for a timing mark on the flywheel. The flywheel is bolted to the other (transmission) end of the crankshaft. On some vehicles, you may discover these marks in all three places.

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(3) Support the engine with some sort of skyhook if you need to remove the rightside motor mount. Some belts are installed with a mount in their center, making changing them problematic.

(4) The motor mount tin can now be removed temporarily.

Support and Tension

Of course, there are professional engine-support rigs available for purchase or rent. But as you lot can run across in our photos, some lumber and an adjustable tiedown strap work just fine to support the powertrain while yous remove that cumbersome motor mount. Once it's out of the way, though, yous're almost home. But remove the residue of the timing belt cover sections and turn your attention to the tensioner caster mechanism.

This tensioner may be an automatic hydraulic type that yous just crank in one direction to remove the former timing belt. Or, you may take to loosen the tensioner caster adjustment bolt to release the tension and the chugalug. Before proceeding, confirm which way the engine rotates during normal operation. (Pull the fuel pump relay or fuse starting time if you demand to disconnect fuel lines the fashion we did. Don't ask how we constitute this out. We're even so getting the gasoline smell out of our coveralls.) Knowing which manner the engine turns is important for checking the new belt'south alignment afterward; you don't want to be off by a tooth on one of the sprockets. The easiest way is to have a helper bump over the starter motor with the ignition key while yous picket the engine. Of grade, now y'all'll have to reset your timing marks by hand. Don't rotate the engine backward to the marks. Crank information technology around forrad to maintain the right tension and to go along the belt from jumping teeth.

TDC? Now you can carefully slide the erstwhile timing belt off its sprockets and pulleys, while trying to keep the camshaft and crankshaft from spinning. With all the timing marks lined up, route the new belt around the largest diameters starting time, leaving the smallest caster or sprocket for last. It'south tricky to skid the new, stiffer chugalug over that last one, simply you'll get it afterwards a couple of dissimilar wiggling, jiggling attempts. Now, make sure the timing marks are however lined up.

Alert: If you know you're working on an interference engine, do not rotate the camshaft or the crankshaft independently while the timing belt is off the engine. You could crusade the pistons to hit the valves, or vice versa, and cause the same damage as if the timing belt had snapped with the engine running -- aptitude valves!

If you're working with a manual tensioner pulley setup, at present is when you perform the factory procedure to tighten the new chugalug. A hydraulic tensioner takes care of this for you. Once the tension'due south set, place a socket on the big nut holding the front caster on and use it to plough the engine over -- 2 consummate crankshaft revolutions in the management of normal rotation. Line upward all the timing marks over again. Everything however on the coin? Then y'all've finished replacing the timing belt -- but you have another 60 minutes's work to reinstall the cam belt covers, any shrouding, and all the wires, engine accessories and hoses you moved or removed.

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(v) Release any belt tension by freeing upward the belt tensioner pulley.

(6) Slip the new chugalug into identify without disturbing the cam or crank pulleys, or the engine volition be out of time. Check by slowly rotating the crank two full turns with a socket on the crank snout.

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1990 Toyota Camry 2.0 I Need to Gear Positions in Timing Belt Procedure UPDATED

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